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Relatively unknown to Western
travelers, Amphawa is a
river market in Samut Songkram
province, about an
hour’s drive southwest of
Bangkok. Many locals still
live a somewhat traditional
lifestyle, paddling around
on canoes to go fishing, as
a means of transport, and
to sell or trade goods in the
market like in olden days.
The market portion that caters
to tourists does not really
get going until around 3 in the
afternoon, when shops along
the canals open for business
and vendors begin to set up
their stalls. The central attraction
for the market is the leisurely
pace in which one can
soak up the atmosphere by
perusing the goods for salekey
things include traditional
Thai desserts, screenprinted.
T-shirts, vintage collectibles, paintings, handmade
stationery and gifts. Guesthouses and
homestays line the tiny ‘boardwalk’ that flank
the narrow canals. Towards the evening, more
merchants on canoes hang out by small piers
where visitors can sample some delicious foodstuff
such as boat noodle soup, Pad Thai, grilled
squid, and green curry, while the longtail motorized
boats start lining up waiting for customers
to board. Trips on the river can be arranged,
costing about 50 baht per person if the boat has
8 passengers, or about 400-500 baht if privately
chartered, regardless of the number of people.
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Touring the riverbanks offers a glimpse of
local homes and customary routines in this
rural district. Sightseeing involves speeding
up the riverways and disembarking at
certain temples. Perhaps the most wellknown
is Wat Bang Kung, which features
a chapel ensconced in a big banyan tree’s
serpentine branches, with a large Buddha
image obscured inside. The temple is in the
compound of Khai Bang Kung, a famous
old Naval Forces Camp in Thai history,
dating back to the late Ayutthaya period.
The Camp was left deserted for almost 200
years, and then established as a Boy Scout
camp again there in onor of King Taksin.
The temple grounds have an interesting
hodge podge of sights to behold.
Most photogenic are the dozens of life-size
soldier statues depicting Muay Thai training
and sword sparring. Most bizarre, however,
definitely must be the 6-legged tortoise and
wild boars in and enclosed in a mud pen.
After nightfall, the last attraction to end the
evening with is observing fireflies hovering
in bushes along the river, blinking on and
off like tiny beacons signaling seafaring
sailors.
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The best time to visit this vibrant
floating market in Samut Prakan
province is in the morning when
boats full of flowers and vegetables
sail side by side. And if you
come early enough you may even
spot monks sailing for alms.
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| Klongsuan Market has existed
on the banks of Prawetburirum
canal’s for over 100 years, and has
roots dating back to the reign of
King Rama V. Walking through the
market you can see and feel the
rural way of life of olden Thailand.
Klongsuan Market offers not only
the nostalgic ambience of Thailand’s
past, but also charming
wooden shop houses selling vintage
items and tasty local foods.
The market was once an important
meeting point for villagers and
people in the area because it was
home to the community’s only pier
(to catch a boat to Bangkok). Oldfashioned
style caf?s still serve
freshly-brewed ‘O-Liang’, a zesty,
cool Thai version of espresso.
Straddling two provinces (Chachoengsao
and Samut Prakan),
Klongsuan Market is probably
the longest (over one kilometer
in length) market by a canal in
Thailand.
About 20 kilometers from Suvarnabhumi
Airport heading towards
Chonburi. Follow the well-designated
signs and Klongsuan Market
is located on the right. |
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| Up to the 19th century, Bangkok Noi
was known as Amphur Amarin, or the
District of Indra. The area then took
the name of the canal running through
it, Khlong Bangkok Noi. Most visitors
start at the former Bangkok Noi Railway
Station, now the district’s tourist center.
From here it’s an easy long-tail boat
ride to the Museum of the Royal barges
as well as two beautiful temples dating
back to the Ayutthaya era, Wat Suwannaram
Ratchaworawihan and Wat
Rakhang Kositaram Woramahawihan,
both reconstructed by King Rama I.
Bangkokians flock to Bangkok Noi and
the lanes named after the Thai sweets
they produce, Trok Matoom (bael fruit)
and Trok Khao Mao (shredded rice) as
well as Ban Chang Lor, where beautiful
Buddha images are cast. |
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| Rather than the hustle and bustle
of the Chatuchak Weekend Market,
it might be fun to paddle back
in time at the Taling Chan Floating
Market, held every Saturday and
Sunday, weather permitting in
front of the Taling Chan Municipal
Office. Vendors sell all kinds of
fruits and vegetables grown in
local orchards and gardens. You
should also try the Khao Lam
(glutinous rice roasted in bamboo
joints) and Kluay Khaek (deep
fried sliced banana). If you have
the time, it’s fun to take the twohour
canal tour, twisting between
the narrow banks lined with traditional
Thai wooden houses and
their smiling residents. |
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While Ban Mai means new village, this Sino-Thai settlement of wooden homes has remained
pretty much the same since King Chulalongkorn visited the town in January 1907. Located
where the Ban Mai Canal meets the once bustling Bang Pakong River in Chachoengsao
province, about an hour and a half drive from Bangkok, the revived market facing the river
operates on weekends and holidays offering rare specialties like Paed Riew (Eight Stripes),
a popular local fish dish, from which the province gets its colloquial name. Visitors also
enjoy watching the noodle vendors as they toss their pasta to prepare such famous dishes
as mee kati (rice noodles with fermented tofu in coconut milk). Located at Suppakij Road,
Muang, Chachoengsao |
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